My Northern Balkan holidays …

Through Budapest, Cluj-Napoca and Sibiu to 7 days in the Fagaras Mountains.

… 7 days …

               … different places, different spaces …

                  … but the weather and so our moods and efforts all followed the same pattern …


It started off like this:


What you see is some nice mostly sunshine morning. Pleasant to walk. Wet clothes drying slowly on backpacks. We usually tried to wake up early and walk fast before it inevitably


… came to this:


Around 3 pm the water clouds You see at the previous picture would condense, making them come lower, and drop all its excess water, and the man vs the wild began. The guidebook we were using to us and many others proved to ambitious. When it happened we were often sometimes in the middle of the track.

Stones became slippery and even though wetness would extract nice, richer, brighter hues making granite look a bit marblish still the steps was difficult to walk on, too easy to slide.

Swollen streams became challenging to cross. Infrastructure is usually old and neglected, the ‘bridge’ is often all but gone giving the hike an adventurous feel to it.


At some point, ca. 1-2 hours raining would stop. When the grass, the gound clothes and boots were sufficiently soaked and walking felt like the old school way of making wine. Then we could traverse the foggy wet chilly air and reach nice cold heights where we would


see something like this:


some nice icecold glacial lake. We could even be proud of our achievements if once in a while we didn’t step in sheep droppings. (NO PICTURE). Humbling reminders that most of even the highest ridges in Fagaras Mountains are conquered on a regular basis by livestock in a search of grass.  We wanted to buy sheep cheese from the shepherds but we forgot the word: it sounds like ‘brintsa’.



And finally we came to enjoy this. After many adventures including:

*blisters on my feet starring in a documentary about Romanian rescue service, 

*hitchhiking on a track

my demolished knees took me down to the valley.


I miscalculated and ‘thanks’ to this we had one extra day in Sibiu. We met a very nice woman on our bus from Fagaras. Her son, Mihai, would take us to the fol festival that was going on in Sibiu then. To make a long story short, they are truly amazing people. All in all only good things we got from the people of Romania.


Next day we did some sightseeing. I remember ‘staring houses’ from Sibiu and the museum of the German settlers. Also that these region had a brief period of independence in 16th century.



           … if any part of unified Europe has retained most of its original ‘flavour’ for the good and the bad and has most of the diversity, I would say it’s the Balkans …I would like to come back there, or somewhere around …




One thought on “FagarasNess

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